Turbulent diffusion in enclosed beaches
Turbulent diffusion in enclosed beachesM.O. Bezerra1, R. Castilla2, M.A. Sanchez2 and J.M.
Redondo2
1 Dept.Fisica Aplicada, U.P.C. Campus Nord, Barcelona,
Spain
2 Univ.Pernambuco, Recife, Brasil
Abstract
Field measurements at an enclosed mediterranean
beach have been made using a variety of techniques
in order to obtain a comprehensive description of the
flow and boundary conditions. San Gervasi beach in
Vilanova i la Geltru, an enclosed beach, provides a
good test case for the study of wave generated turbulence
without the superposition of a large scale longshore
current. Measurements performed during 1995 under a
variety of atmospheric and oceanic conditions include:
Salinity and Temperature profiles at selected sites
as well as wind measurements and bottom sediment collection
with a small vessel. Bathimetric measurements of the
area and video recordings of the incident and breaking
wave field as well as detailed measurements on the
dispersion of blobs of dye and of floats. The spectra
obtained from video measurements agree with those
obtained from velocity recordings as shown by Redondo
et.al.(1994). Other visualization techniques which
allow the estimation of integral time and length scales
are presented, Redondo et.al.(1994b). Eddy diffusivity
measurements are lower than those often quoted in the
literature, showing a marked anisotropy.